Coastal Flooding & Solutions, Workshop Case Studies

CDIP’s Buoy-Driven California Wave Model

Location: California

Submitted By: James Behrens - Scripps Institution of Oceanography

Project URLs:

Project Description

The Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UC San Diego, maintains an operational model of nearshore (20 m water depth) wave conditions along the entire ocean coast of California. Offshore, deep water directional wave buoys are used to initialize a non-stationary, linear, spectral refraction wave model. Model nowcasts and hindcasts of spectral parameters commonly used in nearshore process studies and engineering design are provided to the public, including validations against nearshore buoy observations. The underlying model, and known skill and bias, are described in W.C. O'Reilly, C.B. Olfe, J. Thomas, R.J. Seymour, R.T. Guza The California coastal wave monitoring and prediction system Coast. Eng., 116 (2016), pp. 118-132, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.06.005

Key Successes

Still considered best wave model for CA operations by Port of Long Beach / MX. Support of runup forecasting


buoy station funding

Any questions regarding this posting, email